“Hard To Get To, Harder To Leave”

Perhaps the most indelible memory I have from 2012 is a freeze frame from a boat ride between two islands in the Caribbean: the image is of the ear-to-ear smile on our 4-year-old son Liam’s face as he sat jauntily in the captain’s perch, bouncing across the waves of the mildly choppy ocean. He was flying on air—and over the moon.

The sublime (and complimentary) rum punch in my hand—as well as the infectious grin of the captain, lightened the mood, as did the knowledge that at the end of the bouncy 25-minute ride was our destination: the Four Seasons Nevis Resort, where we were to spend an extraordinary Thanksgiving week.

We were indulging a serious need for some R&R after an autumn that included Hurricane Sandy, being forced out of our home, enduring the stormy kindergarten application process for Liam, teething and “crying it out” for our 1-year-old Quin—not to mention the ridiculous (however rewarding) work schedule that is the reality that Marilou and I share.

Bouncing on the waves amidst Liam’s mirth and the radiance of Marilou and Quin signaled to me that we had made it successfully through yet another set of specific challenges posed to us NYC parents, and, importantly, that better days lie ahead. Instinctively, I knew appreciating such opportunities would be the best way forward and the hallmark of our intrepid little family, with all its inevitable quirks and imperfections.

“Hard to get to, harder to leave.” That’s what they say about Nevis, the tiny island in the Caribbean, where Marilou and I once spent an extraordinary babymoon years earlier. It’s a place we held dear to our hearts and one we spoke of often as a “must return.” It felt amazing to be back from the moment we arrived, owing to the kindness of the staff, the charm of the resort, and the overarching simplicity of it all.

Just like New York City, Nevis has been through a great deal since 2008. Hurricane Omar struck a profound, devastating blow and shuttered the fabulous Four Seasons Resort, putting hundreds of people out of work temporarily and altering the course of their lives. With a shared sensitivity to crisis, we returned and were overwhelmed by the resilience of the people; their enduring spirit ensured it would indeed be a restorative trip all around.

The accommodation options are many at the resort. On our babymoon, we were happy in a spacious room at the hotel, with a gracious screened porch that faced the sea, where we sat and talked about life with kids that faced us. Fully enmeshed in our “life with kids” and entirely aware that space is a very important commodity, we elected to take the villa this time. And we opted to bring Grammy—my vivacious and travel-loving mom—for whom a trip from Florida was a welcome respite from the politics that annually pervade her retirement community around Thanksgiving.

The villa was an embodiment of our tropical fantasy second home, complete with a fully-stocked modern kitchen, comfortable furnishings, sprawling beds, locally-sourced art, high-end electronics, an infinity pool, and a screened-in dining area. For those not inclined to cook on vacation, room service offers a mix of Continental and Caribbean fare, with nominally priced and well-received kids options. The villas boast a warm staff that has a genuine understanding of service that shows through at every turn. Need a gate to keep your 1-year-old from climbing the steps? Done. Need an extra bottle of champagne? Done. Need to print a document that needs to be signed, scanned, and sent to NYC? No problem.

Accessible to the resort by our own golf cart, the villa was a spread of three bedrooms over two levels, creating the perfect amount of space to stretch out, get comfortable, and enjoy a week away from reality. Babysitting was seamlessly organized and staffed by lovely, relaxed people who engaged and cared for our sons. The Resort provides so much for families, including the always excellent “Kids for All Season” program.

Sports activities abound. As golf and tennis lovers, we were thrilled to see Liam make progress on his ground strokes with the extraordinarily patient, child-friendly instructor. The legendary golf course provided a valuable bonding experience for my golfing neophyte mother and me. We got to indulge  on links with water challenges as well as jaw-droppingly beautiful ocean vistas, perched among romantic villas, historic ruins (Nevis was the original stop for Columbus, the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton, and a British colony until independence in 1983–celebrating their 30th this September!) and, much more importantly, voluminous monkeys.

One of our standout babymoon memories was a lazy day spent at the luxury-style cabanas that line the beach at the resort—which we learned were completed destroyed and subsequently rebuilt after Omar. It was a true indulgence that included attentive and friendly service, proximity to restrooms, satellite TV, Wi-Fi, and other luxuries. We also managed to slip away from the resort to revisit Sunshine’s, which we fondly recalled as the prototypical beach bar, offering some of the best wings, shrimp, rum drinks, and local eccentrics.

Legendary local bar fare aside, the cuisine and dining experience at the Four Seasons never fails to impress. The breakfast buffet is the perfect mix of island eclectic with Continental mainstays along with classic European charcuterie and Island Roti. Dinners at the waterfront bistro Mango are perfect for intimate date nights, as is the Italian and Continental cuisine at Coral Grill, where we had a lovely Thanksgiving dinner.

The spa is more of a garden of splendor and peace than any of the mainland variants I’ve ever encountered. Set aside from the resort, it’s staffed by the type of people who clearly understand what the experience should be: simple, holistic, pure, and life-affirming. From my signature massage using exfoliating volcanic soil from Mt. Nevis to Marilou’s organic wrap and scrub, it was a great way to take a pause from parenting and regroup.

One of the crowning moments was when Marilou had the great idea to take our holiday photo somewhere at the resort. The staff was quick to assist our vision and dispatched an affable and talented local photographer. For a fraction of what we’d pay in NYC, the photog captured the peace, joy, and warmth of a family vacation with alacrity and a spirit unique to Nevis and the Four Seasons. These people are proud of where they live, proud of what they do, and proud with what they’ve created. They want guests to enjoy and appreciate their little paradise, and more importantly, they want them to return.

As a businessperson and parent who wants to spend what little time I have in positive ways, I deeply admire that. And support it. You can trust that we will return to regain that feeling as soon as we can!

Clint White is an NYC-based entrepreneur and writer focusing mostly on arts, culture, and education marketing. His project culturadar.com recently launched in Chicago, DC, and NYC.

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